Earlier in the year, we asked Bill if he knew anybody that would be a good fit as a humble, stylish and wave hungry surfer that could put our longboards to the test and help us progress the traditional end of our quiver. In an instant, he had a name and a grin...
We all ding our boards on a regular basis... if you don't, you will, go surfing already! Anyways, for those of us that already have a set of clothes designated as ding repair/shaping/glassing only, this article may not be for you. You already know the do's and don'ts of surfboard care.. or don't... and your board reflects it. If your board is still minty fresh, you may run into damage you weren't expecting. This article serves to keep that freshy intact and on point.
Here's my take on attempting to shape your first board... Jumping straight to a fresh blank, even with all the right tools, will still end up leaving you with a dented wallet and a whittled little piece of foam that you're too ashamed to take to a glass shop.
I had been buying boards off the rack, or pro models used off of craigslist for years. I was still learning, and was naive as anyone else when looking at new surfboards. I wanted to ride what Andy Irons rode, what Taj was getting barreled on.I thought if I watched enough of their clips, got the board they were on, I would eventually get the hang of it, right?
For nearly 8 years now I've been creating custom boards for myself and others and I really haven't looked back. There really isn't anything quite like running across the sand and watching other surfers stare at my board with 100 questions they'd like to ask. And that's just where it starts, out of the water. So, without further interruption, here's why I simply must go custom...
If global warming is sending us these late season southern hemi hurricane swells, at least there's finally a benefit from climate change. Cabo just got SLAMMED with new hurricane swell. We got the best run of legit I've seen in San Diego in years. My own home break broke bigger than I'd ever seen it... and I've been surfing that wave for over 15 years.
Remember getting your first surfboard? That feeling you got the second your hands felt the shape of the rails and concave of the bottom? Almost as if you could just stare at it for hours as you waited for that first session to happen?
He's a super quick peek of Bill shaping a new board for us. If we like this one we may introduce it in the fall. We are looking to make an improvement to our surfboard line up and this one we are hoping fits the one-stick-quiver theory.
Remember getting your first surfboard? That feeling you got the second your hands felt the shape of the rails and concave of the bottom? Almost as if you could just stare at it for hours as you waited for that first session to happen?
