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Remember getting your first surfboard? That feeling you got the second your hands felt the shape of the rails and concave of the bottom? Almost as if you could just stare at it for hours as you waited for that first session to happen?
Now picture a board you cannot find at any surf shop; a board so perfect that it was in fact built ONLY for you. Imagine putting your hands on the something no one else has because you are the sole reason that board exists. It is a feeling that probably cannot be explained in a modest blog post, but this is my attempt anyways…
Recently I have been torn by my love of certain shapes. I am a huge fan of fish and hybrid style boards and love the expression and versatility they provide. My “go-to” board since I have been with Degree33 has been a 6’0 NexGen Pivot Fish for a long list of reasons I won’t get into with this article. But every now and then there is a craving for creativity and personalization in surfing, something different that stencils and colored pens simply cannot provide. The desire to own that “magic stick” no one else has or knows exists. That gem hidden deep within your subconscious, waiting to be exposed and shown off for the world to see.
Even a tweak of dimensions to a stock shape can make a surfboard completely unique because it is now made to fit your style and ability. While going custom is not always for everyone, it can open your eyes to a whole new surfing experience and push your capabilities to the next level. Ever have a board you love but wish it was just a little faster down the line? Or maybe you wish it could handle larger waves while still being easy to paddle? If so then a custom board just might be the answer you’re looking for.
While trying to find my own magic nugget, I came to the conclusion that customs need to be made for a specific purpose. If they aren’t then why not just buy a board “off the rack”? When going for your first, second, or even tenth custom surfboard you need to have specifics in mind. Think about the waves and conditions you want this board to thrive in as well as any goals you want to reach. Also take into account your body type and build as this is often a reason people look beyond stock boards.
The biggest motivation for making your board this precise is because you are now building a quiver… an arsenal of boards at your disposal that can make the most awesome surf just that much more epic, or turn the weakest surf into the best session you’ve ever had. Although there are boards that can bridge both gaps, when you start developing your skills you will realize using one board in all conditions can actually plateau your abilities. Having boards built for your body type as well as the waves you’ll be surfing will force you to progress into a more balanced and consistent surfer.
Focus on your home break or your yearly treks down south. Make that custom board something special, something that will leave others longing for what you have as it not only amplifies your style and ability but your confidence in even the most adverse conditions. It make every session something special
As for me, I couldn’t decide on just one new board…so I got two.
My fresh new winter board at 6'2 x 19 1/4 x 2 1/2 and my small wave nugget at 5'6 x 21 1/4 x 2 3/4