Paddling out this morning, I gazed upon Lake Pacifica with an eager grin. At first glance you're probably wondering why I'd be excited. That's because I'd put the shortboard away and had an 8ft Ultimate longboard beneath me. There were only three dudes out at my favorite reefy left-hander which meant we could all grab a handful of fun ones. They were sharing perfect little 1-2fters under bluebird skies and I couldn't wait to practice a little bit of noseriding.
Here on the west coast, we've had a good run of swell over the past month or two and while it's been a blast, it's also gotten fairly crowded at all of our favorite breaks. Warm water and good waves have a way of enticing us so easily so I could never hold it against my fellow surfer. It's time to let my shoulders take a breather and let my feet do the work. For those of you that want to make that transition from total rookie to progressing beginner, you can finally let out a sigh of relief as the weekday crowds fizzle out and perfectly manageable knee-thigh high waves roll in just for you. Summer fun is here!
That said, we'd like to share a video clip courtesy of Sector 9 that encompasses what summer waves are all about. It features Joel Tudor, a crowd favorite in Socal communities that stands for all that is good and fun in the world of playful surfing. He shares some waves with locals at crowded Cardiff and Seaside Reefs and Malibu's perfect right-hand point break during a run of late Spring south swell. While lineups may be a little busy during summer weekends, it's still a perfect atmosphere for sharing your surf stoke with everyone in the water.
Grab an Ultimate Longboard and get your plank on!