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Home break: Del Mar reefs
Years Surfing: 8
Team Roles: Founders
Favorite Degree 33 Board:
Luc: 9'5" Classic Log
Holly: Toss up between my 8'6" Ultimate and 6'6" Poacher
Vann: One of each
Why do you surf?:
Luc: It's one of the few activities where time stands still and nothing else matters but the next set out the back. All your stresses and junk get left on the beach. It's just you, your maker, and the ocean.
Holly: It forces you to be present and enjoy the moment. It's replenishing, fun, and life giving.
Holly, What is one thing you never leave home without?: My kid. :)
Luc, which do you prefer, dawn patrol or sunset session?: The conditions are better for dawn patrol but I am not a fan of getting up early. So... glass-offs it is.
Where is your dream surf trip destination?: We been eyeing a trip to Nica most recently.
Would you rather paddle out solo on an epic day, or paddle out with friends when its small?: Friends. It's always more fun when your buddy sees you score the wave of the day.
Favorite surf break you have ever surfed?: Chuns, North Shore
Years Surfing: 25
Team Role: Shipping Manager, Utility player, Social Media
Favorite Degree 33 Board: 6'0" Custom coined the "T9". We call it that because Brandon and I kept getting the Taco Bell T-9 combo and then got the same board done custom for each of us. It's a rounded squash take on the Jack, A little more volume, a little more outline, and a touch more flip in the nose and tail. Solid double concave/Vee out the back. Heaps of drive. LOVE IT!
Why do you surf?: Because it's the one place where I feel the most calm, collected and confident. You get to escape the binds of the human body and ride the ocean as if you're a pelican.
What surfers did you look up to the most growing up?:
The big kids that could look stylish on any board under their feet. My Dad and Uncle, they'd let me charge anything I could paddle out in. Andy, Parko, Kelly, Pancho, The Hobgoods, Sunny, Jerry, Pat and Wingnut.
Do you pee in your wetsuit?: Before I even get to the water
What is your favorite food? Leftovers
Where was your best session to date (tell us the conditions) and why?: Hard to recall, I've had mythical sessions in the past but my surfing has gotten better since then. I'd say my favorite recent one was with my lady and the D33 guys, Rob and Boss man Luc. It was semi-clean, not that big but a few good sets here and there. A random set reared up waaaaay beyond the kelp, I knew it was the rogue beast that shows once a session. I quietly lurked out WAY beyond the pack. As soon as everyone saw what was coming, I turned on the jets and got into position. I almost missed the drop but stuck my arm in the wave and took the highline right past the boys. You know you got a good one when the Boss woots you from the shoulder. I got 4 good full wrapping turns and got a finishing hack off the lip... literally rolled up onto the sand. My lady had just scored a wave in and was on the beach, so I wanted to give it my all! That was my best wave in probably the last 2 years.
Describe your style in 3 words: Sturdy, fast, patient.
Any advice to new surfers starting out?: Don't give up, surf every kind of board you can get your hands on, be patient. Push yourself just beyond your comfort zone, you'll learn and improve twice as fast.
Would you rather paddle out solo on an epic day, or paddle out with friends when its small?: Solo on a good day. I love my buddies, but there's nothing like the feeling of taking your surfing to the next level in a single session. At that moment when you eye up the lip for a snap and commit bigger than you ever had, the last thing you're thinking about is someone else.
Homebreak: Marin County, CA
Years Surfing: 14
Team Role: Videographer, Utility player
Favorite Degree 33 Board: 5'11" Supressor
Why do you Surf?: My family has always been very ocean minded growing up. From bodysurfing with my dad and mom as a grom, to surfing with my friends as a teenager, the Ocean and the connection I have received through surfing is the most stable thing in my life. When things get crazy, being out in the ocean to think and reflect seems to have a way of balancing things out for me, or leading me in the right direction.
What or who is your biggest inspiration (In life or surfing)?: In life, my dad has been my biggest influence and inspiration. In Surfing, its a three way tie between Andy Irons, Taj Burrow, and Dane Reynolds.
What connections does art and surfing have for you?: Surfing is an artistic expression on how you see the wave. There is no ‘Right’ way to do it. Waves are one of a kind, you’ll never see one exactly like it again. Thats why I like taking pictures of them. You’re in that moment, and you capture something that can never be recreated exactly the same way again.
Which do you prefer, dawn patrol or sunset session?: Dawn Patrol. Cup of coffee and minimal people in the lineup is a beautiful thing.
Where was your best session to date (tell us the conditions) and why?: There was a day back in High School in spring, and a friend in another classroom checked the report for Ocean Beach (SF). There was a minimal written report other than it said “GO SURF” in all caps. We were both 18 at the time and had the ability to check ourselves out of class without getting absences, so I went into the attendance office and said I had a physical therapy appointment. My dad works from home, so I remember having to sneak into the backdoor of the garage to get my wetsuit and board, without getting the attention from our dog. We got to Ocean Beach a half hour later and it was 5-7 feet, every sandbar had a perfect A-frame, and the wind was offshore. We picked a peak by ourselves and scored for hours, until we couldn’t feel our feet anymore. Still one of my greatest memories ever.
What is your favorite surf film/clip?: Best all time: Blue Crush 2. Also, Modern Collective, Dear Suburbia, and Slow Dance have all blown my mind in recent memory. MarineLayerProductions and What Youth also have killer video shorts always on their site.
Who has a better mustache, Burt Reynolds or Tom Selleck?: Ron Burgundy, hands down.
Best surf etiquette advice for guys in the lineup?: Share. Don’t be a wave hog, get stoked on other people getting good rides. That and don’t drop in on someone, look both ways before you commit.
What would make you happier than you already are?: Getting dropped in on by pro surfer Laura Enever.
Years Surfing: 54
Team Role: Master Shaper
Favorite Degree 33 Board: Its a toss up between the Ultimate and the Jack
Who is your biggest inspiration in surfing?: Skip Frye, John Hayward. That type of fluid surfing is the most visually impressive to me.
Why do you surf?: I'm addicted. There is no rehab for us.
What is one thing you never leave home without?: 4-5 boards
Dawn Patrol or Sunset Sessions?: Dawn Patrol
Favorite Surf Film?: Cosmic Children
Favorite Food?: Mexican
Describe your surfing Style in 3 words: Old School Mellow
Best Surf Etiquette Advice for guys in the lineup: Respect your Elders. Just respect in general. If you go out to try and take over, you are just going to get a bad reputation.
Advice for new Surfers starting out: Go for longer, wider and more stable boards. Get used to the feeling of the board before you move on. Don't try to ride what the big guys ride, it will take you longer to learn. Give it some time and get into it full on, not just once a month. Think, Eat, Surf...commit.
What is your go to board?: A 6'8" Hybrid 4 fin
Would you rather paddle out Solo on an epic day or paddle out with friends when its small?: Paddle out with friends. Its more fun talking with somebody
All time Favorite surf break: The Wall down in Baja