Whether you are a newer surfer just learning how to navigate a line up, or a more advanced surfer in a new area, learning to pick your surf spot can been intimidating! This blog will outline a few general principles to help you have more success in picking your spots and in having more fun in your sessions!
Assess your performance level
Before assessing the types of waves in your area, first determine your performance level. An advanced surfer will be looking for steeper waves, while a brand new surfer should be looking for softer and more forgiving waves.
Remaining honest about your progression level is important because you should not be looking for waves that are too advanced for you!
What type of surfer are you?
In addition to assessing performance level, determine what type of surfer you are. (i.e. longboarder, shortboarder, midlength rider etc.) If you ride longboards, you will need waves that are soft and open face... not dredging beach breaks. If you ride shortboards or midlengths, you will want to look for waves that offer a bit more push.
What are the main surf spots in your area?
Now that you've given yourself a personal assessment, you can now begin checking the waves in your area. We recommend calling a local surf shop to ask for an overview of some of the main spots in your area. They should be able to give you insight into which waves might be suitable for you. Second, if you have the time for it, drive up to each of these spots to get an idea of what the waves are like first hand. Someone might say a wave is "an easy beginner spot" but it turns out to be a lot more advanced than expected. Looking at the waves in person will help close the gap between the waves themselves and an individual's perception of them.
Do any of these spots match your style and performance and how would I know this?
Once you've driven around the area or have heard from local surfers or surf shops, look for waves that have characteristics that match your skill level. Here is a quick guide to help you determine if any of the waves in your area are suitable for you:
A) Beginners and Longboarders
Necessary Wave Type
Slow, rolling waves, big channels
What to look for
If you see lots of longboard surfers in the line up, along with plenty of long rides on an open face, this is likely a great spot for you. Look for a channel as well (where the waves are not breaking, allowing for an easy paddle out).
B) Intermediates and Midlength surfers
Necessary Wave Type
Waves that offer enough push to turn and generate speed, but not too gnarly
What to look for
Certain reef breaks and breaks breaks are great intermediate spots if you see: surfer's with a diverse range of boards (longer and shorter boards), surfer's of a similar progression level as you, and waves that are not overly steep or overly soft.
C) Advanced and Shortboarders
Necessary Wave Type
Steep, expert only waves that offer lots of push
What to look for
If you see steeps waves, majority shortboard surfers, little to no channel, barrels, airs, snaps, and other high performance maneuvers, this is likely an expert only wave.
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What are the crowds like in your area?
Because surfing if getting more and more popular by the day, it is not only the waves you need to consider but the people. At certain waves, even if they seem to be within your progression level, there may be some unhappy locals that you'd want to avoid. Rather, choose areas that seem friendly to new comers.
If you find yourself at a surf spot that has a tight knit crew of surfers who don't seem very friendly, show respect and don't paddle battle them or hog waves.
Second, you also don't want to go to a place that is too crowded. Overly crowded breaks are dangerous and usually not as fun. Ideally find a place that offers good waves and a smaller crowd.
Last
We hope this has been a helpful guide! If you are in or visiting the San Diego area, we would love to personally assist you in finding the best spot for you! We'd also be happy to help you find the right board for your skill level. Give us a call at (800) 920-2363 or email us at surf@degree33.com for assistance.
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